Beauty from within with the help of botanicals
The first weeks of autumn bring a series of changes that seem to drain away all summer benefits, affecting our appearance and vitality. Seasonal changes are not just a shift in the weather, but a biological transition involving the circadian rhythm, the immune system, metabolism, and even the gut microbiota.
But what happens inside us when our beauty seems to fade outside? And what can we do to support regenerative processes and restore the right inner balance? Nutraceuticals and nutricosmetics answer these questions today with the concept of beauty from within: beauty that starts from inside, based on a healthy lifestyle, moderate but regular physical activity, a balanced diet, and nutritional supplementation.
The appearance of our skin, hair and nails is a visible reflection of our inner balance and of the processes that can disrupt it: oxidative status, inflammation, hormonal homeostasis, gut health and sleep quality. These can be grouped into a few axes, and each of them can benefit from botanicals’ traditional use and from the latest findings of scientific research.
The first axis: defence and vitality
Autumn puts double pressure on the body’s immune system and oxidative status. On the one hand are the first cold days, more time spent indoors and vitamin D drop due to reduced sun exposure, all conditions that increase vulnerability to respiratory tract infections. On the other are urban pollution, chronic stress and a diet with less fresh fruit and vegetables, all factors that fuel oxidative stress and inflammation. The skin feels these changes; moreover, we should not forget that this organ is the body’s first barrier against external aggressors.
Common thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.) is one of the oldest and most recognised plants of the Mediterranean area. Its Greek name, thymos, evokes courage and vital strength. Ancient Greeks burned it on gods’ altars, and warriors bathed in thyme water before battle to boost their vigour. Egyptians used this scented herb in mummification for its antiseptic properties, and the Romans cultivated it as a remedy for respiratory and digestive complaints. In his monumental De Materia Medica, Dioscorides already regarded it as a “warming” aromatic herb and described in detail its use as an expectorant and antispasmodic. In medieval Europe, thyme was a symbol of purity and protection: ladies embroidered it on knights’ scarves as a sign of bravery.
Dog rose (Rosa canina L.) has an equally fascinating history. Its name, cynorrhodon in Greek (meaning “dog rose”), recalls the ancient belief, handed down by Pliny the Elder, that a decoction of its root could cure rabies. Throughout Europe, rose hips, the autumnal red fruits, were gathered and preserved as winter tonics par excellence. During the Second World War, when trade blockades prevented citrus fruits from being imported into Britain, the government organized nationwide rose hip collection campaigns to make vitamin C-rich syrup for children. It is a rare and fascinating example of how folk medicine can help in case of extreme emergency.
The contribution of EPO botanicals
Thymox® is EPO’s proprietary dry powdered extract of Thymus vulgaris L., standardised to contain 0.30% thymol, obtained from aerial parts harvested at flowering, when active compounds reach their peak. Thyme phytocomplex includes essential oils (thymol and carvacrol as main components), tannins, flavonoids and triterpenes. Preclinical studies have documented a double action, particularly relevant for this season. First, anti-inflammatory activity on human respiratory epithelial tissue, with inhibition of key transcription factors and mediators of the inflammatory response (NF-κB, IL-1β, IL-8). Second, expectorant activity, with increased ciliary beat frequency and improved mucus clearance. Thymox® is DNA-certified to guarantee its botanical authenticity and is produced entirely in Italy, with a supply chain traceable from the field to the finished product.
Dog rose (Rosa canina L.) dry extract is made from the hips, a natural source of vitamin C. In fresh fruit, the vitamin C content can be up to twenty times that of citrus fruits. Its phytocomplex, however, is highly varied, containing polyphenols, flavonoids, carotenoids and galactolipids. Dog rose exerts an antioxidant action through modulation of the signalling pathways that regulate cellular redox activity and an anti-inflammatory action through inhibition of several pro-inflammatory cytokines. In addition, vitamin C is an essential cofactor in the synthesis of collagen, the structural protein that keeps skin elastic and firm. An autumn ally with a double vocation: immune protection and beauty support.
The second axis: sleeping well to be healthy and beautiful
There is one hormone that skin knows well and fears just as much: cortisol. Also called the “stress hormone”, cortisol has visible consequences when its level becomes chronically high. It accelerates collagen breakdown, reduces the capacity for cell regeneration, and increases sebum production, which may affect acne. In autumn, moreover, natural light decline disrupts the circadian rhythm and melatonin production. Sleep becomes more fragmented and less restorative, with direct consequences on daytime cortisol levels. It is a vicious circle: stressors raise cortisol, cortisol interferes with sleep, and poor sleep raises stress levels further. The skin faithfully records it all.
During deep sleep, by contrast, cortisol levels fall in line with circadian rhythms. Tissue repair processes activate, such as skin cellular regeneration and the production of most of the body’s collagen. That is the reason for a common English expression: beauty sleep, a happy intuition, confirmed by physiology.
Skullcap (Scutellaria lateriflora L.), known as blue skullcap for its small, helmet-shaped blue flowers, was used for centuries by indigenous peoples of North America as a calming remedy to relieve anxiety and promote sleep. It reached Europe in the 18th century, when Enlightenment-era botanists classified it among plants of medicinal interest. It soon became part of Northern European folk medicine as an herb “that calms the head”, now widely confirmed by scientific research.
The contribution of BlueCALM®
BlueCALM® is EPO’s proprietary dry extract of Scutellaria lateriflora L., standardised to contain 10% baicalin. It comes from an entirely Italian supply chain, and it is DNA-certified to prevent adulteration with germander (Teucrium chamaedrys L.), a morphologically similar but hepatotoxic species. Its phytocomplex contains flavonoids, diterpenoids, phenylpropanoids, amino acids and natural melatonin. BlueCALM® acts at several levels, documented in vitro: significant inhibition of cortisol release and dose-dependent antioxidant activity. It also inhibits the formation of AGEs (Advanced Glycation End Products), harmful compounds involved in tissue ageing, including skin ageing.
The randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study showed a statistically significant improvement in sleep quality in all treated subjects. All participants taking BlueCALM® slept more than 6 hours per night, the minimum threshold for avoiding the risk of hypertension, cardiovascular and metabolic disorders.
The third axis: it all starts in the gut
The gut-skin axis is part of a complex theory that has long investigated the two-way relationships between the gut and various organs of the body, mediated by endocrine, neurological, and immunological mechanisms. Besides their common embryological origin, the gut and the skin share other features, in particular the large and diverse microbial community that symbiotically lives on them. The gut microbiota influences the systemic inflammatory response and also drives the production of short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), which are the “fuel” for colon cells and help regulate immunity. Finally, it affects the levels of certain B vitamins essential for skin health. Autumn dietary changes, less outdoor physical activity, and seasonal stress tend to cause gut dysbiosis, with negative effects on the skin, such as increased skin reactivity and acne in predisposed individuals.
Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) is a hardy, thorny shrub of the coastal and mountain regions of Eurasia, with peculiar orange berries that ripen in autumn. For over a thousand years, it has been used in Tibetan, Chinese, and Siberian traditional medicine. Known as a restorative tonic, a remedy for skin wounds and an intestinal regulator, as early as the 16th century, European herbal texts documented its use as a purgative. Mongolian tradition held that horses should graze near sea buckthorn shrubs to strengthen their coat and vigour. This is probably the origin of the Greek name Hippophaes, “that makes horses shine”, a surprisingly fitting detail.
The contribution of Olivellax®
Olivellax® is EPO’s proprietary dry powdered extract of Hippophae rhamnoides L., standardised in isorhamnetin, the main active flavonoid in the berries. Its phytocomplex is extraordinarily rich: 75 compounds have been identified by UHPLC-HRMS/MS, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, proanthocyanidins, carotenoids and triterpenoids, many of them with antioxidant properties.
Functionally, the mechanism of action is thought to work on several levels: a prokinetic action mediated by isorhamnetin derivatives, the osmotic effect of natural mannitol, modulation of aquaporin 3 (AQP-3) and restoration of optimal SCFA levels in the microbiota. A randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study showed that a dose of 500 mg/day for 28 days increased the number of weekly complete spontaneous bowel movements by over 40%, with normalisation of stool consistency and improvement in bloating, abdominal pain and the feeling of heaviness.
A well-functioning gut is not just a digestive matter. It is one of the basic conditions for healthy skin, an efficient immune system and well-controlled systemic inflammation, and a cornerstone of the beauty from within concept.
The quality of ingredients for a successful botanical supplement
Choosing quality extracts is essential for safe and effective botanical supplements. Extracts phytochemical characterisation, marker standardisation through validated analytical methods, a traced and certified supply chain, bioaccessibility and bioavailability tests, and clinical studies to prove efficacy make our “branded extracts” (Thymox®, BlueCALM®, Olivellax®) unique botanical ingredients for formulations that keep the promises of tradition through the rigour of science.
For information on EPO extracts, visit www.eposrl.com or contact the EPO sales team: export@eposrl.com.